I wanted to share my solution to T8 BDM I have been using for awhile now. Never bothered to look for pogo pins for it, that would be the next step... but here is my current process:
Buy these, part numbers included in the pics. I got mine from Digi-key.
Surface mount headers, 1mm pitch iirc
through hole connector (mates to the above header)
Use some ribbon cable with a standard 2.54mm pitch connector that will facilitate connection to your tuning device (combi for me). Terminate one end of the cable with the 2.54mm pitch IDC connector and the other end by soldering the individual leads to the through hole connector above. You should seperate the wires and keep a 1:1 pinout. I've added shrink tubing and a pre-bend to it to make things easier and last longer. Here's what mine looked like:
Now you are all set to connect to a T8. Next step is to get the ECU ready.
Open the ECU, take the 3 screws off the back and carefully and slowly pry the case open. Work around the opening a little bit at a time. This flap that opens can bend very easily which can brick your ecu pretty quick. I'll say it again, BE CAREFUL!! I also find that going around the opening every so often with a razor can help unstick it.
And here's what it looks like open, we are going to solder to the pads in the lower right corner. Only open it as much as you need to.
This is where young eyes, or a microscope will be pretty invaluable. I use the microscope at work on mine. This is a view of the pads we will solder to:
This is a view of the pads we will solder to:
First remove the conformal coating completely from this area. Then remove the excess solder from the pads, solderwick works great here: Now take you surface mount headers from above and solder one to those pads. Here's what it looks like after:
That's it. Now connect you cable you made to the header and BDM your ECU. Please remember these ecu's are good for 4 or 5 openings before they crack and break, it's just a flex joint as the ecu is a clamshell. And only open just enough for access.